Quick Answer:
The best open heart watches include the Orient Bambino Open Heart ($200-$250) for reliability and value, Bulova Automatic 96A187 ($250-$350) for American heritage, and Hamilton Jazzmaster ($600-$800) for Swiss quality. Open heart watches feature a dial window exposing the balance wheel, offering mechanical movement appeal at accessible prices.
This guide reviews the top 7 open heart watches across all budgets, compares features and movements, and helps you choose the right model for your needs.
Top 7 Best Open Heart Watches (2025)
#1: Orient Bambino Open Heart – Best Overall Value
| Specification | Details |
|---|---|
| Movement | Orient F6T22 automatic (in-house) |
| Case Size | 40.5mm diameter, 12mm thick |
| Water Resistance | 30 meters |
| Crystal | Mineral crystal (domed) |
| Price | $200-$250 |
Why It's #1:
The Orient Bambino Open Heart delivers exceptional value through its in-house F6T22 movement—uncommon at this price where most brands use generic calibers. Orient manufactures their own movements, ensuring quality control and reliability that outlasts similarly-priced alternatives.
Key Features:
- In-house automatic movement (not generic ETA or Miyota)
- Hacking seconds and hand-winding capability
- Classic 40.5mm dress watch proportions
- Domed mineral crystal for vintage aesthetic
- Multiple dial colors (white, black, blue, champagne)
- 40-hour power reserve
Pros:
- Best movement quality under $300
- Elegant dress watch design suitable for formal occasions
- Reliable Orient build quality (decades of watchmaking experience)
- Widely available online and in stores
- Strong customer satisfaction ratings
Cons:
- Mineral crystal scratches easier than sapphire
- Limited 30m water resistance (not swim-safe)
- Leather strap only (no bracelet option from factory)
- Domed crystal can distort viewing at angles
Best For: First-time open heart buyers seeking reliable Japanese craftsmanship, dress watch collectors on a budget, anyone wanting in-house movement under $300.
Real-World Performance:
Owners consistently report +8 to +15 seconds per day accuracy—excellent for a $200 watch. The movement runs smoothly, and the open heart window showcases the balance wheel's consistent oscillation.
#2: Bulova Automatic 96A187 – Best American Heritage
| Specification | Details |
|---|---|
| Movement | Miyota 9015 automatic |
| Case Size | 42mm diameter |
| Water Resistance | 30 meters |
| Crystal | Mineral crystal |
| Price | $250-$350 |
Why It Stands Out:
Bulova brings 145+ years of American watchmaking heritage to the open heart category. While using a Japanese Miyota 9015 movement (a highly respected caliber), Bulova's design philosophy and quality control justify the premium over generic brands.
Key Features:
- Miyota 9015 movement (high-quality Japanese automatic)
- Slim case profile despite 42mm diameter
- High-beat movement (28,800 bph vs Orient's 21,600 bph)
- Classic Bulova aesthetic with modern touches
- Smooth seconds hand motion
Pros:
- Reliable Miyota 9015 used in $500+ watches
- Smoother seconds sweep than most competitors
- American brand heritage (est. 1875)
- Sleeker case design than typical 42mm watches
- Established service network
Cons:
- Higher price than Orient with similar feature set
- Still uses mineral crystal (not sapphire)
- 30m water resistance limits practical use
- 42mm may wear large for smaller wrists (<7")
Best For: Buyers valuing American brand heritage, those wanting smoother seconds motion, anyone with larger wrists (7"+) who prefers modern proportions.
#3: Fossil Townsman ME3099 – Best Budget Option
| Specification | Details |
|---|---|
| Movement | Fossil automatic (Miyota-based) |
| Case Size | 44mm diameter |
| Water Resistance | 50 meters |
| Crystal | Mineral crystal |
| Price | $150-$200 |
Why It's the Budget King:
Fossil proves you don't need $300 for open heart aesthetics. While the movement is a basic Miyota-derived caliber and finishing isn't as refined as Orient or Bulova, it delivers the visual appeal of mechanical watchmaking at department store prices.
Key Features:
- Large 44mm case (statement presence)
- 50m water resistance (better than most open hearts)
- Fashion-forward modern design
- Available in multiple dial colors
- Easy to find at Macy's, Nordstrom, Amazon
Pros:
- Most affordable automatic open heart
- 50m water resistance handles rain and handwashing
- Bold, modern styling appeals to younger buyers
- No-fuss shopping (available at department stores)
Cons:
- Generic movement (not in-house)
- 44mm too large for smaller wrists (<7")
- Build quality below Orient/Bulova
- Less horological credibility (fashion brand)
- Louder rotor noise (common in budget automatics)
Best For: Budget-conscious buyers exploring automatic watches, those wanting larger case sizes, fashion-forward wearers, first watch purchase under $200.
#4: Invicta Pro Diver Open Heart – Best Dive Watch Style
| Specification | Details |
|---|---|
| Movement | Invicta automatic (NH35-based) |
| Case Size | 40mm diameter |
| Water Resistance | 200 meters |
| Crystal | Flame-fusion crystal |
| Price | $100-$150 |
Why It's Unique:
Most open heart watches adopt dress or casual styles. Invicta offers a dive watch aesthetic with an open heart complication—a rare combination under $500. The Seiko NH35 movement (or its derivative) provides proven reliability.
Key Features:
- 200m water resistance (actual dive watch rating)
- Seiko NH35 movement or close derivative
- Screw-down crown for water protection
- Unidirectional rotating bezel
- Luminous hands and markers for low-light reading
Pros:
- Only dive-rated open heart watch under $200
- Reliable NH35 movement (easy to service worldwide)
- Actually water-resistant for swimming (unlike most open hearts)
- Aggressive value pricing
Cons:
- Invicta brand polarizes watch collectors
- Quality control inconsistent (some units arrive misaligned)
- Large, bulky design typical of Invicta
- Open heart questionable for serious dive use (movement exposure)
Best For: Divers wanting automatic movement visibility, those needing genuine water resistance, buyers on extreme budget (<$150), Invicta fans.
Important Note: While rated 200m, the open heart design exposes the movement. For serious diving, consider traditional dive watches.
#5: Seagull M182SK – Best Chinese Watchmaking
| Specification | Details |
|---|---|
| Movement | Seagull ST1780 automatic (in-house) |
| Case Size | 38mm diameter |
| Water Resistance | 50 meters |
| Crystal | Sapphire crystal |
| Price | $200-$300 |
Why It Matters:
Seagull proves Chinese watchmaking competes with Japanese and Swiss. Their in-house ST1780 movement features beautiful finishing rare at this price. This is the only watch in this entire list with sapphire crystal under $300.
Key Features:
- In-house Seagull movement with visible decoration
- Sapphire crystal (scratch-resistant)
- Classic 38mm size (vintage proportions)
- Hand-engraved balance cock
- Blue steel hands
- Côtes de Genève stripes on movement (decorative finishing)
Pros:
- Sapphire crystal at this price (unheard of elsewhere)
- Movement finishing rivals $500+ Swiss watches
- Perfect size for vintage aesthetic (38mm fits 6.5-7" wrists)
- Demonstrates Chinese horological capability
Cons:
- Less brand recognition in Western markets
- Service network limited (fewer watchmakers familiar with Seagull)
- Availability varies (often imported directly from China)
- Customer service challenges if issues arise
Best For: Watch enthusiasts open to Chinese brands, those wanting sapphire crystal under $300, smaller wrists (6.5-7"), collectors appreciating movement finishing over brand name.
#6: Hamilton Jazzmaster Open Heart – Best Premium Option
| Specification | Details |
|---|---|
| Movement | Hamilton H-10 automatic (ETA-based) |
| Case Size | 42mm diameter |
| Water Resistance | 50 meters |
| Crystal | Sapphire crystal |
| Price | $600-$800 |
Why Go Premium:
Hamilton represents Swiss watchmaking at an accessible price through Swatch Group ownership. The H-10 movement offers 80-hour power reserve—nearly double most automatics. Sapphire crystal, superior finishing, and brand prestige justify the premium.
Key Features:
- 80-hour power reserve (wear Friday evening, still running Monday morning)
- Swiss-made movement and assembly
- Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
- Refined case finishing (brushing and polishing)
- Heritage brand (est. 1892, American roots, Swiss production)
Pros:
- Exceptional 80-hour power reserve (class-leading)
- Swiss brand credibility and horological respect
- Sapphire crystal standard (scratch-resistant)
- Superior finishing and quality control
- Holds value better than fashion brands
Cons:
- $600-$800 price point (not budget-friendly)
- 42mm may wear large on some wrists (<7")
- ETA-based movement (not entirely in-house like Orient)
- Limited water resistance (50m, not swim-safe)
Best For: Buyers prioritizing Swiss heritage, those wanting extended power reserve for weekend rotation, collectors building quality collection, gift purchases for significant occasions.
#7: Bulova Automatique 96A235 – Best Vintage-Inspired Design
| Specification | Details |
|---|---|
| Movement | Miyota 9015 automatic |
| Case Size | 41mm diameter |
| Water Resistance | 30 meters |
| Crystal | Mineral crystal |
| Price | $300-$400 |
Why It's Special:
This Bulova captures 1950s-1960s open heart aesthetics with modern reliability. The vintage-inspired dial design, applied markers, and domed crystal evoke mid-century watchmaking without sacrificing contemporary movement performance.
Key Features:
- Vintage-inspired railroad track dial
- Applied hour markers (not printed—adds depth)
- Domed crystal for retro aesthetic
- High-beat Miyota 9015 (28,800 bph for smooth sweep)
- Multiple colorways (black, white, blue dials available)
Pros:
- Authentic vintage aesthetic without vintage reliability issues
- Smooth seconds sweep (high-beat movement)
- Applied markers add quality and depth
- Bulova heritage and quality control
- Unique design stands out from modern sports watches
Cons:
- Premium price without sapphire crystal
- 30m water resistance limits practical use
- Domed crystal can distort viewing at angles
- Heavier than modern watches (traditional construction)
Best For: Vintage watch enthusiasts, those wanting mid-century aesthetics, collectors appreciating design over spec-sheet value, buyers seeking conversation starters.
Comparison Table: All 7 Watches
| Model | Price | Movement | Case Size | Crystal | Water Resistance | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Orient Bambino | $200-$250 | Orient F6T22 (in-house) | 40.5mm | Mineral | 30m | Best value |
| Bulova 96A187 | $250-$350 | Miyota 9015 | 42mm | Mineral | 30m | American heritage |
| Fossil Townsman | $150-$200 | Miyota-based | 44mm | Mineral | 50m | Budget option |
| Invicta Pro Diver | $100-$150 | NH35 | 40mm | Flame-fusion | 200m | Dive style |
| Seagull M182SK | $200-$300 | Seagull ST1780 | 38mm | Sapphire | 50m | Chinese quality |
| Hamilton Jazzmaster | $600-$800 | Hamilton H-10 | 42mm | Sapphire | 50m | Premium Swiss |
| Bulova Automatique | $300-$400 | Miyota 9015 | 41mm | Mineral | 30m | Vintage design |
Open Heart vs Skeleton Watches: Quick Comparison
Since users often confuse these styles, here's the key difference:
| Feature | Open Heart Watch | Skeleton Watch |
|---|---|---|
| Dial Exposure | 10-30% (small window) | 80-100% (fully transparent) |
| Movement Visibility | Balance wheel only | All gears and bridges |
| Price Range | $100-$800 | $500-$5,000+ |
| Legibility | High (traditional dial) | Lower (gears obscure markers) |
| Maintenance | Standard servicing | More complex (exposed movement) |
Choose Open Heart if: You want mechanical appeal with clear time reading and affordable pricing.
Choose Skeleton if: You want maximum visual impact and are willing to pay $500-$2,000+ for intricate designs.
How to Choose the Right Open Heart Watch
Step 1: Set Your Budget
Under $200:
- Fossil Townsman ($150-$200)
- Invicta Pro Diver ($100-$150)
$200-$300: ← Sweet spot for value
- Orient Bambino ($200-$250) ← Best overall choice
- Seagull M182SK ($200-$300)
- Bulova 96A187 ($250-$350)
$300-$500:
- Bulova Automatique ($300-$400)
$500+:
- Hamilton Jazzmaster ($600-$800)
Step 2: Determine Your Style
Dress Watch (Formal occasions):
- Orient Bambino
- Bulova Automatique
- Hamilton Jazzmaster
Casual/Modern:
- Fossil Townsman
- Bulova 96A187
Sport/Dive:
- Invicta Pro Diver (only water-resistant option)
Vintage-Inspired:
- Bulova Automatique
- Seagull M182SK
Step 3: Consider Case Size
Smaller Wrists (6.5-7"):
- Seagull M182SK (38mm) ← Best fit
- Orient Bambino (40.5mm)
- Invicta Pro Diver (40mm)
Average Wrists (7-7.5"):
- Bulova Automatique (41mm)
- Bulova 96A187 (42mm)
- Hamilton Jazzmaster (42mm)
Larger Wrists (7.5"+):
- Fossil Townsman (44mm)
Step 4: Prioritize Features
Want Sapphire Crystal?
- Seagull M182SK ($200-$300) ← Budget option
- Hamilton Jazzmaster ($600-$800) ← Premium option
Need Water Resistance?
- Invicta Pro Diver (200m) – only swim-safe option
- Fossil Townsman (50m) – splash-resistant
Want In-House Movement?
- Orient Bambino (Orient F6T22)
- Seagull M182SK (Seagull ST1780)
Want Extended Power Reserve?
- Hamilton Jazzmaster (80 hours) – weekend-proof
Caring for Your Open Heart Watch
Open heart watches require standard automatic watch care with one consideration: the exposed balance wheel.
Daily Wear
Avoid Shocks:
The balance wheel is visible through the open heart window. While protected by crystal, avoid dropping or hitting the watch against hard surfaces.
Keep Crystal Clean:
Dust can accumulate around the open heart window. Wipe the crystal weekly with a microfiber cloth.
Winding:
If your watch has hand-winding (Orient, Hamilton), wind it 20-30 times when first wearing after storage.
Maintenance Schedule
Every 5-7 Years:
Full service (cleaning, oiling, regulation)
- Cost: $150-$300 for Japanese movements
- Cost: $300-$500 for Swiss movements (Hamilton)
As Needed:
- Crystal replacement if scratched (mineral crystals)
- Gasket replacement (if water-resistant models)
- Strap/bracelet replacement
Water Resistance Reality
Most open heart watches have 30m (3 ATM) water resistance:
- ✅ Safe: Handwashing, light rain, sweat
- ❌ Unsafe: Swimming, showering, diving
Only the Invicta Pro Diver (200m) is truly water-resistant for swimming.
Frequently Asked Questions
Which open heart watch brand is best?
For value and reliability, Orient Bambino is the best choice under $300. It offers in-house movement, proven reliability, and excellent finishing for the price.
For those wanting Swiss heritage and extended power reserve, Hamilton Jazzmaster is the premium pick at $600-$800.
Budget buyers should consider Fossil Townsman ($150-$200) for basic open heart aesthetics.
Are open heart watches less reliable?
No. The small opening doesn't affect reliability. The movement remains sealed within the case, and the crystal protects the exposed portion. Open heart watches from reputable brands (Orient, Bulova, Hamilton) are as reliable as closed-dial automatics using the same movements.
The only minor concern is dust accumulation near the opening, preventable with regular crystal cleaning.
Do open heart watches need special maintenance?
No. They require the same servicing as standard automatic watches: cleaning, oiling, and regulation every 5-7 years. The open heart design doesn't add servicing complexity. Any watchmaker who services automatics can handle open heart models.
Can you swim with an open heart watch?
Most open heart watches (30m water resistance) are NOT swim-safe. They handle handwashing and rain but not swimming or showering.
The exception is the Invicta Pro Diver with 200m water resistance, which is technically swim-safe. However, the open heart design is unusual for serious dive use.
Are cheap open heart watches worth it?
Depends on expectations. Watches under $200 (Fossil, Invicta) offer the open heart aesthetic but sacrifice build quality, movement refinement, and longevity. They're acceptable for casual wear or first automatic watches but won't last decades.
Spending $200-$250 for an Orient Bambino provides significantly better value long-term. The in-house movement and superior build quality justify the modest price increase.
Which has better value: Orient or Bulova open heart?
Orient Bambino offers better value at $200-$250 due to:
- In-house movement (not generic)
- Lower price point
- Comparable reliability
Bulova 96A187 costs $250-$350 and uses a Miyota 9015 (high-quality but not in-house). You're paying extra for American brand heritage and slightly smoother seconds sweep.
For pure value, choose Orient. For brand prestige, choose Bulova.
Do expensive open heart watches hold value better?
Yes, to a degree. Hamilton open heart watches ($600-$800) hold value better than budget brands due to Swiss heritage and build quality. However, open heart watches generally depreciate more than traditional dial watches.
If resale value matters, stick with established brands (Hamilton, Bulova) over fashion brands (Fossil) or polarizing brands (Invicta).
Final Thoughts
Open heart watches bridge the gap between traditional automatic watches and exotic skeleton pieces, offering mechanical movement appeal at accessible prices.
Key Takeaways:
- Orient Bambino offers the best value under $300 with in-house movement
- Hamilton Jazzmaster delivers Swiss quality and 80-hour power reserve for $600-$800
- Fossil and Invicta provide budget options under $200 with quality compromises
- Seagull M182SK is the only sapphire crystal option under $300
- Most open heart watches are dress styles with 30m water resistance
Who Should Buy Open Heart Watches:
Open heart watches appeal to those who:
- Appreciate mechanical movements but prefer traditional watch aesthetics
- Want more visual interest than a closed dial
- Find full skeleton watches too busy or expensive
- Are building an affordable automatic watch collection
- Need a conversation starter at social events
Who Should Skip Them:
Consider alternatives if you:
- Prioritize maximum legibility (some find the opening distracting)
- Need serious water resistance (most are 30m only)
- Want maximum resale value (traditional dials hold value better)
- Prefer minimalist or ultra-clean dial designs
For most buyers, the Orient Bambino strikes the ideal balance of quality, aesthetics, and value at $200-$250.
Quick Primer: What Is an Open Heart Watch?
For those new to the term:
An open heart watch features a small aperture (window) on the dial revealing part of the movement inside—specifically the balance wheel and escapement. This design differs from full skeleton watches that expose the entire movement.
Why "Open Heart"?
The window typically appears at the 12 o'clock or 6 o'clock position, resembling an anatomical heart. As the balance wheel oscillates back and forth, it creates a mesmerizing "heartbeat" effect.
Brief History:
The open heart design gained popularity in the 1950s-1960s when watchmakers wanted to showcase automatic movements without the cost of full skeletonization. Brands like Bulova and Hamilton pioneered the style, which remains popular in affordable automatic watches today.
Key Advantage:
Open heart watches offer a glimpse into mechanical watchmaking at $100-$800 price points—far more affordable than the $500-$5,000+ required for quality skeleton watches.
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